Saturday, June 5, 2010

What Makes a Bead VINTAGE?

In the bead world, I always imagined that the definition should read something like “an era when bead makers used delicious colors, multiple shapes and materials to make little masterpieces for us to covet in the years ahead”.
A small object, usually round and containing a hole, for stringing, collecting, fondling and possessing creating bits of happiness to drool over.
Aside from wine, cars, memorabilia and other things, the word vintage can vary based on the subject matter as well as the individuals you speak with. Within the beading industry, its mostly agreed to that vintage beads should be at least 30 years old, give or take 5 years.
 We view vintage as from the late 19th century to the middle of the 20th century. But it’s not only age that makes a bead of vintage stature.
Glass is made from sand (silica), sodium oxide and limestone. The glass of vintage era included a quantity of lead, which gave the glass a rich glow. Crystal made by Swarovski has the highest content of lead, at a whopping 32%, which is still maintained by the company in all beads made today. There are old metals which have formed a wonderful patina over the years. By the way, don’t try to scrub that patina off it adds to the value. Vintage beads are also made of a variety of plastics, of which Lucite comes to mind.
Color: The glass used for beads in the first half of the century included a variety of materials that were hazardous and poisonous, such as arsenic, lead oxide, and precious metals to name a few. Glass crafters were experimenting with hardness, workability and eventually, color. Over time, more and more ways to cut costs and ways to increase safety were considered, and by changing the recipes for the glass, they eliminated an entire color pallett. For instance, the pinks of today are sort of a soft peachy-pink, not really true pink. The pastels of years past are soft hues with hints of true color. Pastels today are sad in comparison. During WWII, many factories went up in smoke, and took with them recipes for creating colors. In an attempt to regain them, much experimentation took place and resulted in happy accidents. For example, the recipe for an opal finish was lost in the war. In an attempt to get it back, the greasy glass colors were created. These beads were produced for a short time, and eventually when the opal technique was rediscovered, greasy glass beads were pulled from the production line.
Shape: Some shapes of years past are pretty amazing, especially if you consider the trends of the time that gave us such stylized designs, such as Art Deco or Victorian. Over time, molds were lost, broken, or simply retired. Today bead shapes are made that cover mass appeal with longevity and are cost effective. There are fewer small glass houses creating unique designs for mass distribution, and more large factories producing huge, bulk quantities. Also keep in mind that using lead in glass gives it more hardness, so delicate designs and shapes could hold their own. Today the glass is softer and beads with appendages or thin bits of glass are more fragile and have to be annealed. Shapes today are sturdy and thick, a big contrast to the delicacy of the 20's and 40's.
Discontinued and/or Retired : In many cases, beads are only put into production for so long, and then the molds are retired. The companies that do this, such as Swarovski, are smart in manipulating the market and creating demand. Sometimes the molds are put back into production at a later time, and the color pallett is tweaked slightly. Many bead factories during WWII were destroyed by bombs and demolition, and factories were shut down or destroyed. The jewelry made pre-war was glamorous, fancy and ornate. The jewelry styles of the 1950's took on a whole new look with modesty and practicality, which fit into budgets better and allowed for even housewives to wear baubles.
Age: Of course, this is something to consider. Take for example old semi-precious stones or pearls. If the stones were made into beads long ago, there may be some other attributes that will give it away, such as shape or style. In finished jewelry, pearls may be styled in designs of the era. In finished pieces it’s easy to tell from stringing materials and clasps. Take into considerations that all stones are old by nature of their content. It won’t make any piece made today of vintage stature.
Once familiar with the characteristics of vintage beads and jewelry, you'll have no trouble spotting them. It’s like when you're driving on the freeway and there's a Volkswagen Bug from long ago driving toward you. Even from a distance, the shape and color and even sound give it away. It will be the same when you're at a bead store and someone comes in wearing a gorgeous necklace. You'll tell yourself, a stunning collection of pre-1920 Venetian foils are coming my way?
While you're out bead shopping, beware of vintage imitation. There's a lot of misrepresentation out there, on websites, auction sites, in antique stores, even some bead stores. Make sure you buy from reputable dealers like the Corner Flower Bead Stand who know their stuff. Don't hesitate to ask questions about what you're buying. Prepare before you buy by utilizing your resources.

No comments:

Post a Comment